After six months of traveling in Central and Western Australia, Farrin Foster shares her favorite routes, from shorter trips to more ambitious ones.
We had planned to travel north from Adelaide, then turn left at Darwin. We wanted to eventually trace the entire western coast and return via the Nullarbor.
As our four-wheel drive collided with a small hatchback, I began to wonder if we would be heading straight for the hospital. We were fortunate that no one was injured and turned our attention to the unknown. This included a series of unexpected visits to some of the most expensive mechanics on the continent.
The road trips that followed were my favorites.
Here’s how to continue my pre-Covid journey as Western Australia ” transitions to a safe, sensible, controlled border arrangement” on 14 November. The Northern Territory is open to all Australians except Melburnians. South Australia will open its borders to Victoria starting 1 December.
The Flinders ranges
Home to some of the Flinders Food Co or O’Reilly’s Orchard in the Flinders region, most food served is deep-fried.
Ignore GPS. You can travel north through Quorn and enjoy the dramatic scenery. Your destination is Wilpena Pound resort in Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, which has an excellently-appointed campground, or – for those in need of luxury – Safari Tents.
Spend at least one full day exploring Ikara. Take part in a welcome to country. Learn from an Adnyamathanha Guide. And take on steep hiking. The vehicle track heading north is the best way to leave the Park after you have driven through Bunyeroo Gorge and Brachina Gorge. You can download maps on the Park’s site. The vehicle track does not appear on GPS, including our Google map. The trip can be rounded off by taking the Parachilna Gorge Road to the Blinman Pub. It’s less famous than the Prairie Hotel, but it is also better.
Break the drive back to Adelaide with a hike in Alligator Canyon.
Giant Forests
This short, long weekend from Perth takes you into the ancient forests of South Australia, where the Karri canopies are so tall that they block out the outside light and sound and focus on the vibrant life below the canopy.
Fremantle is a good place to stop for supplies and lunch. After that, head to Lane Poole Reserve. A river slices this part of Dwellingup State Forest and offers walks and swims, as well as camping. But the private and tiny campsites at Stringers make the best choice.
Warren National Park is two and a quarter hours to the south. Our neighbors at Draftys were curious kookaburras, twice as big as any I have seen in South Australia. We also saw wrens, sleepy snakes, and bird calls from high up in the trees on the 11km Warren River Loop walk. There are also more exciting options nearby, including a sandy 4WD track or the opportunity to climb 65m up a large tree that was used as a former fire lookout.
Before driving back to Perth, stop at Crossings Bakery for a huge pastry. You’re close to home when the trees start to shrink, and the sun reappears.
The Red Centre Way
The seven-day loop from Alice Springs takes in iconic sites like Uluru. But the extra magic comes from the less-known stops along the way, which slowly reveal the majesty and beauty of central Australia.
Start with the West MacDonnell Ranges, home to popular Instagrammed swimming spots like Ellery Creek Big Hole. The pictures will not tell you that the water in these pools is icy cold. Stay clothed, and go hiking in Angkerle Atwatye or Ormiston Pound, where bushfires have ravaged the beautiful landscape. This contrast highlights the importance of the battle against invasive species.
The road to Kings Canyon is dotted with camping spots. Take a detour and visit Palm Valley. First, the Kalaranga Lookout at Sunset and the Mpulungkinya Walk (found at the bottom of a fun 4-wheel drive track) made me forget how to breathe. Continue on the Mereenie Loop – an incredibly long dirt road with very few stops but views that are worth the effort.
The final destinations on this route are in a very special period. Kings Canyon, Uluru, and Kata Tjuta are now less crowded. It is the ideal time to listen to the traditional Anangu owners who, in the national park literature, encourage visitors to “let new knowledge come through your ears, your mind, and your heart.”
Katherine to Kakadu
This itinerary includes a week-long road trip in a 4WD vehicle that visits some of the most beautiful swimming spots in the Top End. It also takes you through different ecosystems.
After arriving in Darwin, take the fastest route to Katherine. It takes around three hours. Head south to Bitter Spring – a thermal swimming pool surrounded by dense tropical vegetation. It has a slow current that allows you to float. As you travel north, stop at Nitmiluk National Park. Access the gorges with a cultural or canoe tour, and escape the crowded Leliyn Falls pool by taking a hike for a full day through semi-arid surroundings to Sweetwater Pool.
Drive to Kakadu National Park from Nitmiluk. A family friend who had entered Kakadu in the 1970s via dirt roads and water crossings set my expectations. The dense wilderness of the Park, despite being a tourist hotspot and serviced by bitumen road, retains its mystery. Famous spots like Gunlom and Jim Jimmie Falls are perfect for swimming. It’s also important to visit the rock art sites.
Spend at least three days exploring the Park, and take every chance to visit a lesser-known area. On our way to camp at the croc-infested Sandy Billabong, we were able to see the undisturbed terrain – which revealed a water Buffalo, kangaroos, and giant red-tailed cockatoos.
Continue to Darwin and, if you still have time, swim in the Litchfield National Park.
It takes about three hours to drive from Darwin to Katherine. Thrifty offers one-way rentals in Katherine for a small fee.
Coral Bay to Karijini National Park
Without hyperbole, the north of WA offers a once-in-a-lifetime experience. This two-week trip includes three unmatched natural phenomena. It requires remote travel preparation and a sturdy 4-wheel drive, as well as a willingness for the excitement of isolation.
Exmouth and Coral Bay serve as the entrances to Ningaloo Reef, a 260km long reef that is listed on the World Heritage List. Ningaloo Reef is more accessible than the Great Barrier Reef. You can snorkel meters away from shore at Oyster Stacks or Turquoise Bay. There are turtles, colorful fish, and tightly packed corals. You will need at least five full days to explore the area. Swim out on your own and then join a tour with eco-friendly providers. This is where you can see giant whale sharks from March to September, mantas rays, as well as dolphins and humpback whales.
Heading inland, map your way to Millstream-Chichester National Park. Wikicamps will help you find the perfect camping spot along the 600km journey through the Pilbara’s red dirt and spinifex flats. The arrival at the Park is shocking – suddenly, an oasis appears with a river that’s as wide as a soccer field.
After a few days of walking and swimming, it is about 200km permit required roads to Karijini. The Pilbara landscape becomes more complex as you travel along the iron-ore rail line. The mine is next to Karijini and between the climbing, swimming, and daily dips into the tropical vegetation-rimmed Fern Pool – a ranger informed me that the 4m python lives there.
